The ultimate one-part urethane rod finish. For those requiring a water-clear, non-yellowing finish that will outlast the rod itself in durability.
The perfect finish for fly rods, light and medium spin rods, pack rods, and in all cases where a large bulky buildup on the rod windings is objectionable.
The perfect finish for any rod subject to constant sun and weather. An excellent coating for wood reel seats.
Hazardous Material. Must ship ground only. Not eligible for expedited shipping. Contiguous 48 states only. A physical address is required for delivery.
Notice--LTD QTY Return Shipping.
LTD QTY - In the event you wish to return this item, due to regulatory requirements, please contact customer service and we will provide the special shipping label and instructions required for the return of this item.
This stuff dries quick, make sure you load enough on the brush for smooth application, the stuff also smells, use in a well ventilated room, store in a Ziploc in a cool dry place, tends to dry on the cap though!
I first used it when I rebuilt my 50 year old "favorite" spinning rod that was pretty well beat up. I was looking for a one part finish. I used it to finish both the blank and the wrappings - and I did this before I even knew what a rod dryer was. It went on easy as long as I used multiple thin coats. I ended up with a beautiful and durable finish. However, this product is not for everyone. It contains pre catalyzed polyurethane resin that cures when exposed to moisture in the air. Minimize the amount of time the product is uncapped and only pour out enough for small sections of work at a time. A glass shot glass works well and do not use plastic. I even go so far as to clean the brush and shot glass between sections. When not in use, I kept the U40 bottle tightly sealed in a glass jar and it lasted three years and I was able to use every drop. Some like to keep it refrigerated. The primary solvent is xylene and straight xylene does a great job of cleaning up brushes. Use it with plenty of ventilation. Xylene is an aggressive solvent, and it will dissolve paint and decals, Extreme care must be taken if coating such things. I learned the hard way. It really isn't the best product for coating wrappings and threadwork. It takes numerous coats to get any significant build up on wrappings . . . but it can be done. I am getting ready to rebuild another 50+ year old relic and the blank will again be finished with U40 before I do anything else.